Dive-Computers.net

Pretty much anything but your first stage and your octo.

your BCD, wetsuit, fins, dive comps, tanks should all be fine, though I would want to get an annual inspection done on all the above at a competent Dive shop….. but that is standard procedure, period.
Make sure tthat tanks have been properly pressure tested, etc… and you are good to go.

Anytime you are doing something that cutting corners could equal a rather uncomfortable death, I would not do so.

PLUS, my firend, I cna hook you up with brand new top line regs at used prices, …. just use Divers Supply. Great gear, usually at half what the local stores charge. I have had nothing but top notch gear and service out of the one in Charlotte, but since they are a Mail Order firm… they ship anywhere.

When it comes to your Regs… by brandname, at the very least..it’s peace of mind.. and my recommendation, since you need to get them srviced annually ( unless you get certified to do them yourself ) is to call around and see which brands you have reputable dealers for nearby, so that getting maintenence is a jiff.

My personal first choice for a reg is the Mares Abyss, which will handle ANY conditions you can throw at it, and I believe can be obtained at Divers Supply for around 350.

You know how to contact me… you got ANY questions about dive gear Leafy, just hit me up on IM.

Diving is still my favorite passion and hobby, and with several hundred dives in most conditions logged…I got a good idea for what works in real world and less than Ideal conditions, as opposed to what the average Rec Diver buys.

You buy good tech rigs… even used ( like my Mares Synchro-Tec BCD ) and it will last you your entire life, no problems.

For basics…check HERE:

http://www.Divers-Supply.com
For most gear I am a big fan of Mares, Tusa and Aeris.
but… to be honest… I find that really on my guages, regs and dive comps need be brand name… and truth to tell… unless you are a Tech Diver… I dislike getting Newbies into using Dive Computers. It’s better to get used to being able to figure things analog, because I don’t believe in putting my safety at the whims of a battery.

Even if you do break down and buy a Comp. learn to dive without one first….. they are not essential, and you can always add it later.

For Suits.. I use pretty much exclusively Diver Supplies Sea Elite brand… as they are half the price of a name brand, and mine has lasted fantastic for almost 8 years now. Again… alot of stuff… you can buy from this company NEW for the price of used gear.

Your biggest areas you will find big savings in the used market is in BCDs and Tanks ( bloody tanks ccost a mint these days ) .

As for your BCD.. I completey recommend a back infaltion over the cheaper and more Recreationally Popular side inflates, preferably one with integral weight pockets.

It will save you the hassle of buying a weight belt ( the less gear, the better, in diving like all things, follow the KISS principle., and the back inflate gives you a more "natural" bouyancy, making streamlning far easier, and therefore, making maintaining your depth and easier, and making you less prone to wasting air both with swim effort and readjusting your BCD. As stated..you find a good Mares Synchro-Tec ( used I bought mine for about 200-250 7 years ago ) you are set for life.

When it comes to tanks.. I am a big fan of hi=pressure steel. Yes, they weigh more than Aluminum, but they also are more neutral bouyancy wise. As your aluminum tank empties, you will have to adjust your BCD… not so with a steel. Also, you wil be able to use less diving weights.

For your fins, definetely go for the split fins….or something like Tusa’s Tri-Flex. Also, stick to strap ons. They cost more, but they fit better and are more rugged. Good fins really reduce your kick effort, and again, that will maximize yoru air conservation.

When it comes to masks….. I have used most very well….
BUT XS scuba may well be the best steals on the market. I own several VERY expensive Mares and Tusa masks, and oddly enough, I always go back to my 35 dollar XS scuba Fusion mask.

When it comes to gloves.. pick what fits best for you, I have not really noticed any difference overall in glove.

For boots… get teh mid calf, they will give you great protection from unforeseen crap underwater, and i absolutely LOVE Deep See’s Orca line. I bought a pair of their Orca Purge 6 years ago, and have never looked back.

Just as important are good knives. Get a nice one for your leg, but prefferably one you can strap around your thigh. Your lower leg is the part most likely to get caught in something, and that is why it is the worst place to store your dive knife.

I also suggest keeping a medium price foldign knife in your BCD. Gerber makes some good serrated ones in the 20-30 dollar range.

For Guages.. I personally prefer Aeris.. but any good 2 guage will do. Getting one with a compass is fine, but I prefer to keep mu compass on my wrist, right next to my watch.

Which brings me to the important note…. DO NOT skimp on a good dive watch. You don’t have to buy some 700 dollar full feature one…. but look at a good 100 dollar watch with adjustable bezel… most good stores carry them. You rwatch and your oxygen guages are your best friends.

And from here..t eh rest are sundries to be bought ont he sale table mostly… your suasage and the like.. no real need most of the time to have expensive tracking gear… but also make sure you got a good Diver Down flag to fly when you ar e under.

If I think of anything else.. I’ll edit… or you cna ask me on IM.

***Goindkinkn… gee.. the reason you dont buy used Regs ( unless they are rebuilt by a reputable manufacturer ) is common sense.

YOUR LIFE DEPENDS ON IT, and you are trusting that the seller took proper care of them. Your life is not worht saving a few bucks on. ANY reputable instructor will agree. Maybe you should have asked yours.

As you yourslef stated… buyer beware. Common sense, when dealing with a novice is still to Keep It Simple Stupid. So instead of leading her to waste money looking at potentially worthless gear, I essentially told her what you neeeded to ramble on for 5 paragraphs to get to.

oh..and I forgot to list second stage with the first and octo.
You wanna risk you life on thrift store dive gear.. that’s your business.. I just hope I never have to dive with you.

Also, There is much to this convorsation you are not privy to, so I would recommend you keep your (ill formed) opinion on the matter, and your TD to yourself.

second hand BCD would be ok, make sure that you can inflate it before buying it listen for leaks,

Fins ok, wetsuit ok if you are going for a dry suit, then be very careful checking the seals, very expensive to replace, mask probably no point buying s/h Dive computer not needed if you are only just starting to dive as you will not be diving with out an experienced buddy, DM (Dive master or instructor) as an open water diver you can dive down to 18m (whatever that is in feet) 55 ish.

As a total beginner,

best to have
mask, fins, snorkel, wet/dry suite, BCD ( buoyancy control device) that’s about it.

Have lots of fun dive safely

RR

My shop requires that students must have their own mask, fins, booties, and snorkel. I would buy these new. Most places will have student specials for this gear. All of the other gear (at my shop) is provided for use during the course.

If your budget is that limited, perhaps renting equipment might be the best route to take.

As for buying used…

Mask – fit is everything. Everyone’s face is slightly different so getting the correct fit might be tough. I recommend buying new.

Snorkel – Mine is currently broken, but I have to wear it when I teach. Can buy used.

Fins – Used is ok if you can get the right size. You might have to invest in some new straps though.

Booties and Wetsuit – Newer wetsuits and booties are the thickness (and warmth) that they claim. My 3mm suit is now probably a 1.5 mm wetsuit with the use it has seen. Also, there are divers that pee in their wetsuits and divers that lie about peeing in their wetsuit. Recommend new.

Regulator – I would avoid anything that has been discontinued because you won’t be able to get parts for it. If you can get the regulator serviced and overhauled, there should be nothing wrong with a used regulator. I recommend new, but a used properly serviced regulator should work.

Tank – nothing wrong with a used tank. Yo umight need to have it inspected or tested.

BCD – Fit is everything on the BCD. Also, many of the straps and everything see a lot of wear and tear. I don’t think a used BCD would be a wise investment.

Not only is he a Metal god, He’s a diving god too. I be impressed.

First I don’t want to blast someone trying to help, but I have a few rather large issues with Peaches post. Starting with his first comment… What about a primary? why do you need a new octo?…

Ok – for the poster, as stated above, What you need to have for the class is a mask, snorkel, fins and booties, and a weight belt (and some places want you to have your own weight). You should need nothing else to get started.

Beyond that, ANY gear can be bought used, however it is buyer beware. As a new diver you can get suckered in to a bad deal very easy. ALL life sustaining gear, (Regulators, BC, Tanks, etc) should be checked out by a qualified tech prior to use. Often there is a cost to this, so saving 100 bucks on 3 year old used BC may not be a geat deal when you get it serviced (let’s say 25 bucks) so you saved 75 bucks and it has 3 years of wear on it.

Tanks are another good example where you can get into trouble… you will learn that in the US tanks need to be visually inspected every year (about 10 bucks – 25 if you need them O2 cleaned) and hydrostaticly tested every 5 (about 20 bucks plus the cost of the visual) You may see a great deal on a tank — but unless you know how to look for the original hydro date, you may be buying a 18 year old tank. that’s "In Hydro and Vis" then you turn around and 2 years later it’s a big paperweight.

I’d agree that Back inflate BCs are better in most cases, but you may find that a backplate and harness are better still. That’s why renting for a bit is actually a good idea. But there is a trade off While you get to try some different styles out / you won’t have the same bouyancy as you would if you had consistant gear. Pockets are in different places etc.

Also as far as your regulator (second stage – the part you put your mouth on.) The mouth pieces are interchangable. So from a hygenic perspective, you can buy your own and it just goes on with a simple wire tie. (that most experienced divers will have enough off) This is probably one of the first purchases I’d make as the stock mouthpieces are thin and flimsy. Adding a half decent mouthpiece can make a crappy reg feel great. (they even have ones that you heat and mold custom for your mouth. (about 30 bucks)

To sum it up, I wouldn’t go buy anything yet. Go talk to your instructor, and visit a few dive shops. You’ll see what kinds of equipment are out there, and that some deals are better than others.

More expensive is not always better in the dive world. Some compaies have to charge a lot as they have high marketing overhead. Some equipment from different companies is actually almost the same except for the logos. but may be 50% more money. And watch out for buying from companies on the internet. 2 issues can occur – 1 is gray market goods. These are brought in from other countries and the manufactuers will not help you with warrenty issues. And second, if you buy X-brand regulators, or BC they should be serviced every year. If the dive shop near you doesn’t service them you may have to send them out for 3 weeks to get them serviced. If something breaks right before a big dive trip, you can’t just run and get parts. So work with your local dive shop. They may have used gear that you can buy, and they should help service it if there are any issues.